The Week That Wasn’t Crazy.

Hey Everyone,

Well that was nice – A pretty standard week here in route-setting land! Hayden and Matt are both gone to Italy for Youth Worlds (Hayden to crush, and Matt to coach) so let’s start this one of by sending them some good luck and encouragement!! With that kind of time off they both better be all kinds of “inspired” when they get back….

New purple on the Pillar and Yellow on the arch - both 11c!
New purple on the Pillar and Yellow on the arch – both 11c!

Kyle and I got to work setting a whole host of new stuff for you guys! Almost all the new routes this week are red, and since most of our red holds are juggy this means a lot of new routes that are 5.10a and below!!!

New 5.8 on The Auto-Belay
New 5.8 on The Auto-Belay

This 5.8 on the Auto-Belay is a particularly interesting one – I set it with the theme of “leg power” so the holds are all really big, like 5.6 big – but the majority of the moves require you to walk your feet up high, and then stand up straight for the next hold. A great route for building your leg strength if you’re just getting into the sport, or for warming up your big muscles if you’re getting ready for a red-point burn!

New 5.10a on Archway!
New 5.10a on Archway!
New 5.10a in the Chimney!
New 5.10a in the Chimney!

We also re-set the “Less steep” with 12 new problems V0-V7! We used a brand new volume configuration and a whole bunch of fresh holds from Metolius!! I am pretty happy with the new set on this wall, a lot of fun problems with some different movement! Highlights are definitely Kyle’s White V2 and my Green V5!

Kyle setting some problems!
Kyle setting some problems!
Super psyched on the new holds we got from Metolius! Thank Jim Sandford the next time you see him!
Super psyched on the new holds we got from Metolius! Thank Jim Sandford the next time you see him!

Also this week the setting program scored some new toys!! We got a new tool chest too help us keep everything organized, and move it all around easier – as well as confirmation that hold orders from both Kilter and Friction have shipped!!

The Gods bought us a fancy tool chest so we can work more efficiently!! Thanks Dan & Colby!
The Gods bought us a fancy tool chest so we can work more efficiently!! Thanks Dan & Colby!
Luigi from Friction Climbing sent me this picture this morning of our upcoming order! We got some currently un-released stuff coming our way :D
Luigi from Friction Climbing sent me this picture of our upcoming order! We have some currently un-released stuff coming our way 😀

Next week is going to be a fun one!! Guest Setter Tristan Ploughman will be spending a few days at Climb Base5, setting both routes and problems! Tristan is one of my closest friends and one of the best commercial setters in the country! He is currently based in the gym-less, cattle-ridden, “town” of Red Deer so I am sure he has a lot of pent up creativity!

I will also be visiting The Hive Vancouver to guest set for their T.N.T. event on Monday night. I worked an event with Dustin and Andreas (the Head, and Assistant Head Setters for The Hive) at True North Climbing about 4/5 years ago and had a blast – I am really excited about getting a chance to work with these guys again, in a new city, at a different gym!

Thanks for reading!